Sacre Coeur

Post by: Christina Uticone, PlanetEye Traveler

Paris can be seen from many angles. Get a street-level view by visiting cafés to sip espresso and people watch. Go underground to see the winding tunnels of the Catacombs where millions of Parisians are interred. Get a bird’s eye view of the city from high atop the Eiffel Tower. My favorite view of Paris is that from butte Montmartre at the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, or Sacré Coeur.

Montmartre is as charming and old-world as the rest of the city, but quieter and less crowded than the more tourist-infested Louvre area (1st arrondissement) or Saint-Germain (6th arrondissement). The neighborhood is still alive with energy, but it’s a local energy, more focused on the business of everyday life. Card and dice games are played on stacks of empty crates which are easily moved to the sidewalk when the occasional car or truck careens through. Buskers perform for money, tempting tourists with music and mime. An eclectic collection of shops line the streets: cheap souvenirs, garment district-style fabric shops, and pastry stores filled with sticky Parisian sweets. It would be a mistake to dismiss a visit to Montmartre as a mere side-trip between major Paris “must-do” tourist attractions. With so much to see and do, Sacré Coeur isn’t just atop the hill – it’s the tip of the iceberg.

The Basilica

Sacré Coeur sits 423 feet above sea level, atop the hill called Montmartre, from which the surrounding 18th arrondissement takes its name. Montmartre means “mount of martyrs”, named such because it is the place where Saint Denis, the first Bishop of Paris, was martyred. The Society of Jesuits was founded there in 1534 by Saint Ignatius of Loyola and Saint François-Xavier. Other notable names in Catholic history with significant ties to the area include Saint Germain, Saint Bernard, Saint Clotilde, Saint Jean d’Arc (Joan of Arc) and Saint Vincent de Paul.

In 1870 France was defeated by the Prussians in the Franco-Prussian War. During the Commune of 1871 the basilica was proposed as an offering of penitence and reparation. The basilica’s foundation was laid in 1875 and construction continued for 39 years, until 1914. Before consecration could take place World War I broke out, lasting until 1918. Sacré Coeur was finally consecrated on October 16, 1919.

View from the top of the Sacre Coeur!

A few details about the building:

  • The original architect was Paul Abadie. It took six successive architects to complete the building during the life of the project.
  • The basilica is built in a Romanesque-Byzantine style, contrasting with the Gothic style of medieval churches like Notre Dame. It is constructed of a type of limestone called Travertine.
  • Stained glass windows installed between 1903-1920 were destroyed by bombing in 1944 and restored in 1946.
  • The famous Sacré Coeur organ is by the famous 19th c. organ builder Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.
  • Interior dimensions of the basilica: 279 feet wide by 155 feet long; the Dome is 272 feet high; the Cupola is 180 feet high and 52 feet wide.
  • Visitors to the dome are 656 feet above sea level, and this is the highest point in Paris next to the Eiffel Tower. From the dome visitors can see a panorama stretching over 30 miles.

 Apse Mosaic

The famous “Christ in Majesty” mosaic is located the apse (the domed recess above the altar) of the church. Designed by Luc-Olivier Merson in 1922 the mosaic is one of the largest in the world. It depicts Christ in Majesty as well as the Sacred Heart worshipped by the Virgin Mary, Jean d’Arc and St. Michael the Archangel. When you enter the church your eye is drawn immediately to the mosaic, which provides a bright, golden counterpoint to the dark interior of the rest of the church.

Perpetual Adoration, Prayer and Celebrating Mass

Sacré Coeur is particularly famous among religious travelers for the Perpetual Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament. The Blessed Sacrament–bread and water that have been consecrated (blessed) during Mass–have been continuously on display in the basilica since 1885.

The basilica holds Daily Mass with the Sacrament of the Eucharist. Monday through Thursday masses are held 11:15 a.m., 6:30 p.m. and 10 p.m.; Vespers (spiritual singing) are held at 6 p.m. On Fridays mass is at 3 p.m. and includes Adoration and Eucharistic procession. On Saturday Vespers are at 6 p.m. followed by Vigils, and an evening anticipated Sunday mass is celebrated at 10 p.m. On Sunday there is a full day of worship starting with Lauds at 8 a.m., followed by Mass at 11 a.m., Vespers and Benediction at 4 p.m., another Mass at 6 p.m., Complines (peaceful meditation and contemplation) at 9:30 p.m. and a final Mass at 10 p.m.

The Sacrament of Reconciliation (confession) is also offered daily at the basilica. Hourly confessions are held daily from 9 a.m. to 12:45 p.m., 12:30 p.m. to 6 p.m., and from 8:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.

When You Visit

A few things to remember when you visit Sacré Coeur:

  • No photography or video is allowed inside the basilica.
  • Proper, modest dress is requested. Men are required to remove their hats when they enter the church and thisis enforced – you will be asked to remove it if you do not do so on your own.
  • Buskers (street performers) crowd the walkways leading up the hill to the basilica. They are very persistent and you must ignore them or they will keep you there all day! Just ask my husband about my amazing 10€ string bracelet.
  • If you are using the Paris Metro you can access Montmartre and the basilica via stations Abessess (line 12) or Anvers (line 2).
  • The climb up the hill to Sacré Coeur is quite steep, so travelers with physical considerations should keep that in mind. A cable car runs from the base of the church grounds to the top for those physically unable to make the climb. There is an additional fee. (Note: Paris Metro pass and ticket holders have that fee included in their fare price.)
  • As always, be mindful of pickpockets. When possible keep important personal documents and money inside a coat pocket. Watch for groups of two or three who might work as a team, with one or two of them working to distract you while another goes for your valuables.

Photos Robert Breuer (basilica exterior); Cyberjunkie (dome); Matthew Clemente (mosaic).

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